Skip to main
artcollectionstravel
Comrade Kyiv
journalimpactabout

travel

Welcome to Bulunkul, Central Asia's Coldest Town

 

Nestled in the centre of the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan, more than 12,000ft (3,700m) above sea level, there is a small plateau with 45 houses lining a road that comes to a rather abrupt end. These houses, home to 306 people, are in the village of Bulunkul, more affectionately known as Central Asia’s coldest town, a place where temperatures as low as -81°F (-63°C) have been recorded. Photographer, Alex Pflaum, describes the time he spent in Bulunkul. 

In Bulunkul there is one school, one shop, and one medical station for emergencies. And although there are 45 homes, there is really just one family. With the exception of some well-aged car batteries, Bulunkul has virtually no signs of electricity, and no running water. In fact, save for the few relics of a not-so-distant Soviet occupation, time seems to have passed by this particular section of the Pamir Mountains altogether.

In the absence of time, the people of Bulunkul have instead come to master the many uses of the yak. They drink its milk, eat its butter, they are warmed by its frozen dung in the fire (which is the only available fuel). They eventually eat its meat and undoubtedly survive by the incredible warming properties of its wool. To them, the yak is a way of life – the only way of life.

A 10mi (16km) detour from the Pamir Highway, many travelers skip the village of Bulunkul entirely. Our curiosity figured it to be worth the detour. Initially, the plan was to spend an afternoon enjoying the sunset before pressing on further east to Murghab, the small capital of the region. But once we arrived, this strange village and its inhabitants had me gripped – I immediately knew that we would need more time. I was fascinated with the vibrancy of life found so far away from any other. Eager to connect, I faced what seemed to be an insurmountable issue, a total lack of any form of communication. No common link.

On the afternoon of our second day, we were sitting in a circle with our host family, sipping yak’s milk tea while attempting to converse through gestures. We were searching for a common thread. After some time, I decided to bring out my Polaroid camera to take a photograph of the youngest daughter of the family. Hiding the developing picture in my hands, I kept blowing on the Polaroid, occasionally letting her peek at what was going on. To the young girl, it was absolutely magic.

Finally, I passed the image to her, and instantly, she rushed around the corner returning 15 seconds later with two of her friends. Frantically, she pointed from the picture to me, back to the picture, and back again to me. A few minutes later, I found an eagerly excited but well-mannered queue forming around us. Over the next 48 hours, I took 120 photographs for the 306 people of Bulunkul.

Standing in what could conceivably be called the "town center", families were gathering quickly. First, it was mostly younger children that got involved. I would take a picture of one of them, and they would immediately run to grab their best friend. Their smiles were infectious, and their excitement spread like wildfire. But, before long, their parents and the other adults started getting involved as well. While their smiles were rarely as large on the camera, once the picture was in their hands, they often acted just as giddy as their kids. A few of them told me that this was the first photo they had ever seen of themselves. As a photographer, that might just be the most impactful thing someone can tell you. 

Alex currently lives in Almaty, Kazakhstan. You can view more of his work on his websiteComrade Kiev also creates sustainable, ethical, design-led tours to the most incredible places on earth. We’ve built close relationships with local guides, and will work with you to create an extraordinary trip which fits your budget, timeline and interests. Follow in the footsteps of legendary polar explorers, climb smoking volcanoes in the remote Far East, or cross the endless Gobi desert on camelback. We’ll take you there. We’ll get you closer. Explore our tours.

Further Reading

culture

The Buran: The Soviet Response to NASAs Space Shuttle

On November 15, 1988, the Soviet Union's first reusable space shuttle, the Buran, launched in what is now present-day Kazakhstan. This little-known chapter in the Cold War space race saw the Soviets build their own version of NASA's Space Shuttle to challenge the USA for space supremacy. The Buran, Russian for "blizzard", was once the future of the Soviet space program. But, its first flight was also its last. A year after its launch, the Berlin Wall fell and the USSR collapsed. The space shuttle program was suspended. In 1993, it was canceled altogether.

art

Intourist Travel Posters - How the USSR Used Propaganda to Drive Tourism

Intourist held a monopoly on tourism in the USSR. As the only tourism agency in the Soviet Union, Intourist was responsible for attracting and accommodating all tourists. Like every other industry or ideal in the USSR, Intourist used propaganda to advance its agenda. Posters targeted western audiences. They portrayed the Soviet Union as a glamorous and exotic land rather than a country of labourers and peasants.

travel

The Trans-Siberian Railroad - The Railroad that Changed the World and Started a War

9,198 kilometres of tracks connect Moscow to the Pacific port of Vladivostok. As the longest railroad in the world, the Trans-Siberian Railway is truly one of humanity’s most impressive engineering feats. But, this symbol of Soviet power has also had an outsized impact on the world at large. Its construction was the catalyst for a war between two superpowers, it transported millions of prisoners to the Gulags, and served as a lifeline during the Second World War.

travel

Exploring Budapest’s Dystopian Underground Water Reservoir

Rising above the banks of Budapest’s Danube river is Gellért Hill, an affluent residential area with elegant tree-lined streets. But, hidden beneath the surface is a strange and surreal sight - the József Gruber Water Reservoir. Every March, it’s emptied for its annual cleaning. With 106 stretched columns, the second basin makes for a futuristic and dystopian landscape.

hello@comradekiev.com
+44 7397 297470
london, UK
london, UK
+44 7397 297470
hello@comradekiev.com
We will never sell your personal information. Read our privacy policy.
T&Cs
condition guide
shipping & returns